(Day of the Dead) Perquin, El Salvador to Leon, Nicaragua (via Honduras) 310 miles
Where do I begin, today was quite an adventure with so many parts and stories to it…it’s hard to even remember where we started this morning…
We woke up in our nice Cabin in the mountains of El Salvador. The alarm woke us up and we decided to head off today to face the two border crossings. After a delicious breakfast at the hotel (granola, eggs, fruit, yogurt and coffee) we headed off early towards Honduras. The drive was pleasant. As we approached the Honduras border we were stopped by about five men running and waving after us. It didn’t look like a checkpoint or border area, but regardless we stopped to see what the commotion was. It was some sort of El Salvadorian border checkpoint, but not at the ‘border’. Yes, very confusing, which has become the entire border experience. We instantly were surrounded by men jamming their handmade ‘badges’ into our noses, and trying to gain Mike’s attention in hopes for money in exchange for helping us. I think I could feel their spit hitting my face as they swarmed so closely to us. We managed to figure out what paperwork was necessary by ourselves and took off. On the way out of there, those several men gestured us to stop at another booth as well, but we decided that we most likely got the required paperwork, photocopy and continued on. Next stop was the ‘actual’ El Salvador border exit point. At this time we were swarmed by another group of men desperately trying to get Mike’s attention. They didn’t try too long on me as I just give them a big glare and say no; Mike tends to be more friendly. After stamping our passports and attempting to make it through the guards, they stopped us and told us we must go back to the original place we started at to get extra paperwork for the motorcycle. We did a round trip and discovered a guy trying to help us jump in a little moto-taxi and haul-ass after us to enable him to ‘help’ us through the entire process; they are pushy! We got the paperwork and zoomed back to the exit point once again; this time success! We drove on through and yet again a swarm of men kept motioning us to go over to yet another building, but Mike felt confident we had everything we need and we took off…into Honduras.
Already the vibe and pushiness of the people gave me a bitter taste as we drove into the new country. The friendliness of the Salvadorians was a thing of the past as we drove by many desperate and bitter looking people that didn’t seem to keen on us passing through. Add that feeling in with a man, with no legs, crawling and dragging himself up the freeway and reaching towards us as we drove by, quickly thank god. I don’t even want to know. The amount of carnage we saw in the first 10 minutes was more than our entire trip. There were more vultures hanging around the roadway than I’ve ever seen. Cows, dogs and giant truck wrecks, I wish to not think about it anymore as the site of the dog was not good. We only stopped once, just for a water break, it was hot and humid and I was already looking forward to leaving the country. As we neared our decided border off the CA-1 highway we climbed some mountains and the rain started to come down pretty hard. I personally didn’t mind as the heat of the day was starting to really get to me, and the coolness from the rain was quite refreshing. There were a few spots in the road, which weren’t in the best conditions and had a few kids standing around trying to get money of the passing cars, of course we are a prime target, but when we don’t pay, they sure get mad around here!
Before we knew it, we had crossed the leg of the entire country and were at the Honduras exit point. We drove up to a small shack with a desk in it and an old rope blocking the way thorough the road. Slowly a couple men, taking their time to get to us, made their way over to the bike. Mike, being his friendly self, greeting the men and began to produce the documents he had. After some serious reviewing of our documents, they asked for another document which we did not have (I guess we did need to stop at an additional place back there), we were missing the Motorcycle importation document. After much staring, reviewing and trying to make us feel very nervous, one guy asked Mike to put the bike off to the side and come with him. I stood by the bike as everyone sat around staring at me. I was a little concerned as Mike was gone for quite a while…but soon enough I saw him approaching. The guy along with the boss of that station wanted to offer us a bribe, $45 dollar to cross the border. He kept trying to negotiate, but Mike was adamant that we did not have that kind of money, so what are our options. The guy wrote the amount he wanted on his hand, and talk softly to Mike, but I believe was quite sure that we would pay rather than drive back. We didn’t, and we left. At that point I really disliked Honduras and wanted nothing more than to leave the country! Mike’s plan was to drive to the other border crossing about 1-2 hours away to give it another attempt.
More rain, more frustration, we were still in Honduras and I honestly didn’t know if we could get out before the end of the day. As the roads around here aren’t well marked, there are times when the road splits, but there are no signs to tell which way to continue. We ran across a junction, and the only person around to ask for direction was a man with a giant machete and his herd of cattle. Yes, in the rain, in the middle of nowhere, sometimes it seems absurd where we end up.
We found our way to the other border crossing; our last hope. After another bound of men flocking towards us, trying to get our attention, Mike went through the same sound and dance of not realizing we didn’t have the paperwork necessary. El Jefe (the boss) made his way to look into the situation; he wasn’t happy and told us the paperwork was required. Mike somehow talked him out of paying the $38 ‘tax fee’ which he said was mandatory. Yes, we were on our way out of Honduras finally. It felt good, but we still weren’t done, we still had to enter Nicaragua! Just a few feet further was the Nicaragua immigration. More hombres gawking, staring and trying to grab your attention. I stayed by the bike and reminded Mike to get ALL of the necessary paperwork before leaving. I try not to look at any of the men attempting to grab my attention, but it’s difficult and very frustrating, at time I get so angry and just want to slap them all. While I’ve had to spend much time waiting by the bike today, I’ve notice that the men enjoy pulling up their shirts and having their belly touching the air. Even the men with large bellies seem to just want to lift and rub… I kept trying to think of a reason why so many men were doing this, but nothing came to mind.
We thought we were done, Mike was doing cartwheels in the parking lot, but then again we were stopped to show our paperwork, we rejoiced yet again, and we were stopped on another occasion. This time we had to pull the bike over, show more papers and buy insurance (we found out later that it is required – thank god we bought it!). Another rejoicing and we were stopped to show paperwork AND our insurance. That was it….it as in finally, not that it was any big enjoyable, quick or sensible. Nicaragua! It felt good to be in another country besides Honduras until we saw the road ahead of us. Mike was singing ‘viva Nicaragua’ at the top of his lungs…but I heard that song take a sudden stop as he glimpsed up at the road; more potholes than tarmac. Yes, literally, more pot holes than pavement. The potholes were quite large as well. If it weren’t for the massive amount of traffic on the road, I would for sure think we took a wrong turn and are lost. Add the condition of the road in with some more rain and the sun slowly disappearing…we still had another journey ahead of us.
Nicaragua, yes, another different country with a whole new vibe. The people seem quite a bit more friendly than their neighboring Honduras and there is quite a bit of an old western vibe going on as there seems to be plenty of cattle and horses everywhere, even in the middle of the road. We rode slowly along the main road, the pavement got a little better, but there were still patches where the road doesn’t exist. I’m not sure if it is bicycle day or what, but it seemed as if everyone in all the neighboring villages were riding their bicycle along side the road. We decided to continue until we got to our hopeful destination, Leon. It got dark on us which allowed us to experience how many of the cars on the road do now put their headlights on and become almost invisible. Add that into the many people on bicycles riding generously inside the roadway with a few semi’s and I was wondering how people stay alive around here.
We blindly weaved through the town and landed on a hotel which was a little over budget, but much needed. $35/night, but we have A/C, a courtyard for the bike and a hot shower. I’m exhausted and can honestly say you couldn’t pay me to go through today again; I’m glad it’s behind us. That should be the worst of the border crossing we’ll need to deal with on this trip; I’m keeping my fingers crossed.
We woke up in our nice Cabin in the mountains of El Salvador. The alarm woke us up and we decided to head off today to face the two border crossings. After a delicious breakfast at the hotel (granola, eggs, fruit, yogurt and coffee) we headed off early towards Honduras. The drive was pleasant. As we approached the Honduras border we were stopped by about five men running and waving after us. It didn’t look like a checkpoint or border area, but regardless we stopped to see what the commotion was. It was some sort of El Salvadorian border checkpoint, but not at the ‘border’. Yes, very confusing, which has become the entire border experience. We instantly were surrounded by men jamming their handmade ‘badges’ into our noses, and trying to gain Mike’s attention in hopes for money in exchange for helping us. I think I could feel their spit hitting my face as they swarmed so closely to us. We managed to figure out what paperwork was necessary by ourselves and took off. On the way out of there, those several men gestured us to stop at another booth as well, but we decided that we most likely got the required paperwork, photocopy and continued on. Next stop was the ‘actual’ El Salvador border exit point. At this time we were swarmed by another group of men desperately trying to get Mike’s attention. They didn’t try too long on me as I just give them a big glare and say no; Mike tends to be more friendly. After stamping our passports and attempting to make it through the guards, they stopped us and told us we must go back to the original place we started at to get extra paperwork for the motorcycle. We did a round trip and discovered a guy trying to help us jump in a little moto-taxi and haul-ass after us to enable him to ‘help’ us through the entire process; they are pushy! We got the paperwork and zoomed back to the exit point once again; this time success! We drove on through and yet again a swarm of men kept motioning us to go over to yet another building, but Mike felt confident we had everything we need and we took off…into Honduras.
Already the vibe and pushiness of the people gave me a bitter taste as we drove into the new country. The friendliness of the Salvadorians was a thing of the past as we drove by many desperate and bitter looking people that didn’t seem to keen on us passing through. Add that feeling in with a man, with no legs, crawling and dragging himself up the freeway and reaching towards us as we drove by, quickly thank god. I don’t even want to know. The amount of carnage we saw in the first 10 minutes was more than our entire trip. There were more vultures hanging around the roadway than I’ve ever seen. Cows, dogs and giant truck wrecks, I wish to not think about it anymore as the site of the dog was not good. We only stopped once, just for a water break, it was hot and humid and I was already looking forward to leaving the country. As we neared our decided border off the CA-1 highway we climbed some mountains and the rain started to come down pretty hard. I personally didn’t mind as the heat of the day was starting to really get to me, and the coolness from the rain was quite refreshing. There were a few spots in the road, which weren’t in the best conditions and had a few kids standing around trying to get money of the passing cars, of course we are a prime target, but when we don’t pay, they sure get mad around here!
Before we knew it, we had crossed the leg of the entire country and were at the Honduras exit point. We drove up to a small shack with a desk in it and an old rope blocking the way thorough the road. Slowly a couple men, taking their time to get to us, made their way over to the bike. Mike, being his friendly self, greeting the men and began to produce the documents he had. After some serious reviewing of our documents, they asked for another document which we did not have (I guess we did need to stop at an additional place back there), we were missing the Motorcycle importation document. After much staring, reviewing and trying to make us feel very nervous, one guy asked Mike to put the bike off to the side and come with him. I stood by the bike as everyone sat around staring at me. I was a little concerned as Mike was gone for quite a while…but soon enough I saw him approaching. The guy along with the boss of that station wanted to offer us a bribe, $45 dollar to cross the border. He kept trying to negotiate, but Mike was adamant that we did not have that kind of money, so what are our options. The guy wrote the amount he wanted on his hand, and talk softly to Mike, but I believe was quite sure that we would pay rather than drive back. We didn’t, and we left. At that point I really disliked Honduras and wanted nothing more than to leave the country! Mike’s plan was to drive to the other border crossing about 1-2 hours away to give it another attempt.
More rain, more frustration, we were still in Honduras and I honestly didn’t know if we could get out before the end of the day. As the roads around here aren’t well marked, there are times when the road splits, but there are no signs to tell which way to continue. We ran across a junction, and the only person around to ask for direction was a man with a giant machete and his herd of cattle. Yes, in the rain, in the middle of nowhere, sometimes it seems absurd where we end up.
We found our way to the other border crossing; our last hope. After another bound of men flocking towards us, trying to get our attention, Mike went through the same sound and dance of not realizing we didn’t have the paperwork necessary. El Jefe (the boss) made his way to look into the situation; he wasn’t happy and told us the paperwork was required. Mike somehow talked him out of paying the $38 ‘tax fee’ which he said was mandatory. Yes, we were on our way out of Honduras finally. It felt good, but we still weren’t done, we still had to enter Nicaragua! Just a few feet further was the Nicaragua immigration. More hombres gawking, staring and trying to grab your attention. I stayed by the bike and reminded Mike to get ALL of the necessary paperwork before leaving. I try not to look at any of the men attempting to grab my attention, but it’s difficult and very frustrating, at time I get so angry and just want to slap them all. While I’ve had to spend much time waiting by the bike today, I’ve notice that the men enjoy pulling up their shirts and having their belly touching the air. Even the men with large bellies seem to just want to lift and rub… I kept trying to think of a reason why so many men were doing this, but nothing came to mind.
We thought we were done, Mike was doing cartwheels in the parking lot, but then again we were stopped to show our paperwork, we rejoiced yet again, and we were stopped on another occasion. This time we had to pull the bike over, show more papers and buy insurance (we found out later that it is required – thank god we bought it!). Another rejoicing and we were stopped to show paperwork AND our insurance. That was it….it as in finally, not that it was any big enjoyable, quick or sensible. Nicaragua! It felt good to be in another country besides Honduras until we saw the road ahead of us. Mike was singing ‘viva Nicaragua’ at the top of his lungs…but I heard that song take a sudden stop as he glimpsed up at the road; more potholes than tarmac. Yes, literally, more pot holes than pavement. The potholes were quite large as well. If it weren’t for the massive amount of traffic on the road, I would for sure think we took a wrong turn and are lost. Add the condition of the road in with some more rain and the sun slowly disappearing…we still had another journey ahead of us.
Nicaragua, yes, another different country with a whole new vibe. The people seem quite a bit more friendly than their neighboring Honduras and there is quite a bit of an old western vibe going on as there seems to be plenty of cattle and horses everywhere, even in the middle of the road. We rode slowly along the main road, the pavement got a little better, but there were still patches where the road doesn’t exist. I’m not sure if it is bicycle day or what, but it seemed as if everyone in all the neighboring villages were riding their bicycle along side the road. We decided to continue until we got to our hopeful destination, Leon. It got dark on us which allowed us to experience how many of the cars on the road do now put their headlights on and become almost invisible. Add that into the many people on bicycles riding generously inside the roadway with a few semi’s and I was wondering how people stay alive around here.
We blindly weaved through the town and landed on a hotel which was a little over budget, but much needed. $35/night, but we have A/C, a courtyard for the bike and a hot shower. I’m exhausted and can honestly say you couldn’t pay me to go through today again; I’m glad it’s behind us. That should be the worst of the border crossing we’ll need to deal with on this trip; I’m keeping my fingers crossed.
Mmm...first good meal in days
A view from our breakfast
Care to buy some flowers for your dead friends?
El Salvador!
Border Taxi service
Yes, it was that exciting to leave Honduras
All smiles
Bienvenidos a Nicaragua (land of many pot-holes)
posted by Pedro and Maria at 3:00 PM
7 Comments:
yeah those salty dogs try and get you. try to get into El salvador without the moto permit. Im a frickin outlaw in central america. Im crossing borders in the dark!! suckas
we paid $45 to get into that pigsty of a country,,, i like anonymous's (adam?) idea, central america is small enuf for that kind of manuvering... South america is easy.
[IMG]http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m292/atompate/migracionh.jpg[/IMG]
Gotta love Perkin Lenca. I spent three weeks there in March of 06. Helped build them a new school. Loved the place, loved the food. Wished I had my scoot there instead of my Humvee.
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