Friday, December 01, 2006

Huanchaco, Peru, 18 miles

I repeat, I love Huanchaco.

Breakfast (included in the $20) was on the terrace just outside our room, overlooking the ocean. We spent some time over our coffee watching the waves and chatting it up. Not a lot of people in Huanchaco (we practically have the hotel to ourselves) even though its close to a big city. I wonder why, it’s a great place.

Just down the road a couple of miles is the “largest mud brick city in the world,” Chan Chan. Amie hit the nail on the head when she said “land of the sand people” from starwars. That is exactly what it looked like. A huge 1500 year old city made of sand and mud inhabited by pre-inca indigenous folk of Peru. A neat spot for sure. The walls were 30’ in places, and there were interesting tombs, wells, and communal areas. There were also lots of highschool-age Peruvian field-trippers at the ruins. I think they were more interested in Adam, Amie and I, as they were all starring at the three gringos (not many others in this area) and not paying much attention to their tour guide.

We got a little sunburnt and decided we had enough ruins and museums for the day. I got a surfboard and wetsuit from a Peruvian guy for $7 all day. He was an interesting character mixing Spanish with US slang like “crazy shit” and “shaka”. He told me that Huanchaco is the worst wave in the area, and if I went an hour north to Chicama I would find the longest left in the world, 3km! Insane… He also had a dog like one I’ve never seen before today. A Peruvian Hairless. Looks like something from another planet!

The surf was too much for me. I got thrashed in about an hour and came back to the hotel with my tail between my legs. Adam and Amie were on the terrace laughing at me over beers. The waves were powerful and consistent, some holding me under longer than I cared to be.

We went back to our favorite restaurant for fresh fish in Garlic sauce and Inca Kola. Inca Kola is the number 1 soft drink in Peru, I believe it’s the only soft drink in the world more popular than Coca Cola (in any respective country; Coke just bought them, so there goes that factoid).

The town of Huanchaco has been one of my favorites. Not just because its surfing paradise with big consistent waves all day all the time, its low key, cheap, friendly, and picturesque. There are also the quirky cigar-shaped reed boats the local fishermen paddle with a thick length of bamboo cut down the middle as an oar. Cool place…

I tried the surf again while Amie and Adam spent quality time on the internet. I met some friendly local surfers. Another cool thing about Huanchaco is the locals are friendly. The waves aren’t crowded (in fact there are always less than 10 in the line up) and the surfers are happy to share their break—very uncommon. I was on an 8’ board, and the locals were riding little potato chips… and riding them very well. These guys were awesome… I had a hard time just getting through the breakers, and when I finally did, I was exhausted. I got smashed a few times, then took a wave in—enough punishment for one day—or maybe not because as I was walking in I managed to step on a sea urchin leaving a couple of stingers in my foot.


Peruvian fun in the sun

Endless surf

Out for the sunset catch

...still together...

The crazy hairless Peruvian dog

Mike's art

Chan chan standoff

What would Chan Chan be w/out Beast Skills???

Pretty amazing site...land of Sand People

Deep thought

2 Comments:

Anonymous Anonymous said...

SHAKA!

1:21 PM  
Blogger ~e said...

hola mijita,

comestas? I'm addicted to your blog. Keep it coming, my fiance' Alessandro says, "Hi". I am wishing you both the best of times, and trying to be patient with the same 'ol 8-5pm over here, but the adventures you are recording make things bland on this side of the world. Oh well, my time will come...in the meantime, drink one for me. Miss you much, and had a great time with Sarah this weekend hearing about the "Green tea" story. HAHA... taco flavored keeses.

~elina

11:48 PM  

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