Qualzetenango (Xela) to Chichicastenago (Chichi), Guatemala, 60 smoggy miles
We were greeted by the Incredible Hulk, Big Bird, Tony the Tiger, Xena Warrior Princess, Chuck E. Cheese, and countless other famous cartoons dancing together in harmony in the streets of Chichicastenango. But before I tell you more about our warm welcome, I must first tell you the misery we experienced.
We both felt ill last night, and sleeping in the dumpy motel inside our tent with a wet floor (because the bathroom flooded the room) didn’t help. After a bad nights sleep we both had terrible stomach pains and endless diarrhea that comes on quick and furiously. Taking turns on the can and feeling dehydrated and famished we set out with fingers crossed in search of breakfast. The fingers were crossed because we were hoping the fury wouldn’t strike while we were away from the comforts of the toilet.
The street scene in Xela is pretty dreary. Lots of poor folk, mal-nourished and unhappy looking. The streets are clouded in burnt diesel smog, so much so its sometimes difficult to breath. After passing a couple of less than stellar breakfast options, we decided on one with a nice door and store front. It was a good choice. We spent the next 30 mintues debating whether the establishment was German owned or American owned while I enjoyed scrambled eggs with onions and sausage (looked like some sort of german werst) and amie had granola and yogurt. The coffee was also excellent. It was just what the doctor ordered to perk us up after such a dreary start to the day. The fury did strike mid meal, but the bathrooms at this fine establishment were far nicer than those at our hotel. The place has wireless internet free to customers to boot. I think we’ll be here again!
All of this comes at a price of course. Breakfast cost more than our hotel last night. Our hotel was only $10, breakfast was $11, so not outrageous.
In much better spirits, we struck out for “Chichi.” Nearly blacking out from the smog, we struggled through the dingy streets from Xela to the highway. Almost instantly we were in the sound of music movie set, cruising at about 55mph through winding picturesque mountain roads, zooming the clouds (literally) was we went gradually up and down anchored at around 6000 feet. About 20 miles of this bliss and the road was washed out. The next 40miles took us over 2 hours with numerous construction stops, muddy/dusty patches, and chocking school bus diesel exhaust.
Finding Chichi wasn’t straight forward either. We were guessing most the time on our route selection, but things worked out and we felt victorious when we saw the sign announcing our arrival. I had the gay guy at the last place call ahead for us as lonely planet says Posada El Arco is the nicest place in chichi, $16, make reservations. Well, its $25 now, very expensive for Guatemala, but worth it. The room has a fire place and a view of one of the neighboring mountains, plus secure parking and lush gardens. The owner, Pedro, even made us some fresh peanut butter!
So now I’ve come full circle. Feeling much better about the day, with our bike safely stashed in the hotel courtyard, we headed into town. First thing we saw/heard was some crazy extravaganza going on behind a blue tarp. As soon as we were able to catch a glimpse (easy to see any parade or anything in Guatemala, average height has to be 5’) we were awarded with the dance party of a life time. Homer Simpson doing the waltz with Saddam Hussein (homer in one hand, machine gun in the other). A skeleton doing the chachacha. Some crazy giant cat headed things tangoing with the hulk. I stood there in amazement amongst other dazzled spectators (most of which Quiche Indians, descendants of the Maya).
We’re hear for the indigenous market. You’ll hear all about that too, tomorrow.
We both felt ill last night, and sleeping in the dumpy motel inside our tent with a wet floor (because the bathroom flooded the room) didn’t help. After a bad nights sleep we both had terrible stomach pains and endless diarrhea that comes on quick and furiously. Taking turns on the can and feeling dehydrated and famished we set out with fingers crossed in search of breakfast. The fingers were crossed because we were hoping the fury wouldn’t strike while we were away from the comforts of the toilet.
The street scene in Xela is pretty dreary. Lots of poor folk, mal-nourished and unhappy looking. The streets are clouded in burnt diesel smog, so much so its sometimes difficult to breath. After passing a couple of less than stellar breakfast options, we decided on one with a nice door and store front. It was a good choice. We spent the next 30 mintues debating whether the establishment was German owned or American owned while I enjoyed scrambled eggs with onions and sausage (looked like some sort of german werst) and amie had granola and yogurt. The coffee was also excellent. It was just what the doctor ordered to perk us up after such a dreary start to the day. The fury did strike mid meal, but the bathrooms at this fine establishment were far nicer than those at our hotel. The place has wireless internet free to customers to boot. I think we’ll be here again!
All of this comes at a price of course. Breakfast cost more than our hotel last night. Our hotel was only $10, breakfast was $11, so not outrageous.
In much better spirits, we struck out for “Chichi.” Nearly blacking out from the smog, we struggled through the dingy streets from Xela to the highway. Almost instantly we were in the sound of music movie set, cruising at about 55mph through winding picturesque mountain roads, zooming the clouds (literally) was we went gradually up and down anchored at around 6000 feet. About 20 miles of this bliss and the road was washed out. The next 40miles took us over 2 hours with numerous construction stops, muddy/dusty patches, and chocking school bus diesel exhaust.
Finding Chichi wasn’t straight forward either. We were guessing most the time on our route selection, but things worked out and we felt victorious when we saw the sign announcing our arrival. I had the gay guy at the last place call ahead for us as lonely planet says Posada El Arco is the nicest place in chichi, $16, make reservations. Well, its $25 now, very expensive for Guatemala, but worth it. The room has a fire place and a view of one of the neighboring mountains, plus secure parking and lush gardens. The owner, Pedro, even made us some fresh peanut butter!
So now I’ve come full circle. Feeling much better about the day, with our bike safely stashed in the hotel courtyard, we headed into town. First thing we saw/heard was some crazy extravaganza going on behind a blue tarp. As soon as we were able to catch a glimpse (easy to see any parade or anything in Guatemala, average height has to be 5’) we were awarded with the dance party of a life time. Homer Simpson doing the waltz with Saddam Hussein (homer in one hand, machine gun in the other). A skeleton doing the chachacha. Some crazy giant cat headed things tangoing with the hulk. I stood there in amazement amongst other dazzled spectators (most of which Quiche Indians, descendants of the Maya).
We’re hear for the indigenous market. You’ll hear all about that too, tomorrow.
All aboard the pimp bus
Another Guatemalan vista
Taste my vapors...vapors you don't want to taste
The economical alternative to the pimp bus
On their way to the Sunday Market
Amie, happy to be at the best hotel in town ($25)
I need to shave
The most incredible street scene ever witnessed (take yout time with this pictures - there is much to see)
posted by Pedro and Maria at 5:42 PM
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